Spain Mistakes

Well I will tell what was NOT a mistake, and that was our decision to hit the beach today!! We took a bus from Granada to a seaside pueblo called Salobrenas, which took less than an hour, and the tickets were under 12 Euro ROUND TRIP. A pretty good deal for a day's worth of entertainment.

It was my first time in the ~Mediterranean~ so that was pretty cool. Unlike St Pete Beach, the water was actually very refreshing (no disloyalty, St Pete, you are still first in our hearts <333) and CRYSTAL CLEAR. Similar to the Keys, but it's more lapis lazuli-colored, whereas the Keys are closer to clear turquoise or aquamarine. Anyway, it was clear enough to see straight to the bottom even past where we were able to dive down and touch it!

A little cloudy at first!!

No marine life to be seen, but the place was packed with people. Actually, that's probably WHY there were no fish, etc. Towels were practically one on top of each other as far as we could see down the beach. And one thing I have to say about this beach, although the scenery and water are spectacular, the "sand" is pretty shit. It's dark gray, which is cool, but it's primarily pebbles and gets BOILING hot in the sun. I stuck to the water most of the day, which was pretty blissful.

Also, all day, there were people walking up and down the beach selling these chocolate pastries and calling out their wares like peanut vendors at a baseball game. They yell "VAAAA AAA AMAAAR TOR-TAS DE CHOC-O-LA-TEEEEE" ("YOU WILL LOVE THIS SHIIIIT--more or less). It was cute and picturesque the first 500 times I heard it.

We finished the day with 1-Euro ice cream cones and the ride back to Granada. Tomorrow morning we go back to Madrid to get ready for school to start, and I have to say, this was the perfect way to end the week. I do love me some beachin.'

Everything About Spain

Once again, I am sitting in my room with the balcony door open to let in the street music, which is really pretty good. The group tonight has a trumpet, and I am definitely feeling that.

Today was craze-amaze! We took a rental van (driven by Ramiro, of course) out into the country about half an hour south of Granada, where we visited an old olive orchard/olive oil factory (what do you call those? What's the olive oil equivalent of a vineyard?). After checking out the trees and learning a little about the machinery used to make olive oil--and no, Mom, I didn't try to eat the olives off the trees--we got to do a little olive oil tasting.

I had joked earlier about being given a glass of oil and told to swish and spit like you do at snobby wine tastings, but that is pretty much what we ended up doing... It was pretty interesting to figure out the different flavors and what attributes make a good olive oil, but I have zero interest in drinking straight oil ever again. Luckily, there was also a bread basket and a bunch of olives to munch on, so it was pretty sweet. Literally. We tried an orange-flavored one that you pour over bread with a sprinkling of sugar. These Spaniards know their shit.

After that, we headed over to the nearby pueblo where our Spanish teacher, Ana, lives with her husband and sons. It's one of Spain's "white villages," (not a racist thing, which I assumed; the buildings are literally all white stucco) and is nestled in a little valley in the middle of the Sierra Nevadas.

Check out those mountains!

After a MASSIVE lunch (seriously massive, we had 4 courses plus drinks and bread IN ADDITION TO the oil tasting), we went for a little tour around the village with Ana's husband, who had us trek all the way up these tiny, nearly vertical streets, which had us all DYING, but did lead to a pretty sweet view. Plus we walked back down through the groves of fruit trees and snacked all the way down past figs, oranges, almonds, walnuts, corn, grapes, avocados, blackberries, pomegranates, and more. How does all that grow in one place???

We ended the day with an "afternoon snack" (it was 7pm) of local pastries and coffee at Ana's house. Her house (which has a lemon tree and a bunch of grapevines in the backyard where we ate) looks out over the whole pueblo and the surrounding mountains, and it really is absolutely beautiful. Her husband referred to Albunelas as a town that time forgot, and it's easy to see why.

Plus there are a lot of goats just roaming the streets. Hey goats.

Spain Want

Well, I didn't go to bed last night after posting my blog. Obviously.

One of the other WUSTL girls and I (shoutout Riva please read my blog) went to a bar across the street from our hotel, and it was playing some pretty solid salsa music and seemed like the place to be. We walked up to the bar and who should we see but the two waiters who work at the restaurant we've gone to every day this week.

Before you get excited, these waiters are not cute. They are late 40's, at least, and one seemed to be with his wife. But they recognized us and bought a round of drinks before we moved on for some rudimentary salsa. Very Spanish, very fun.

Today was our last day of class with Ana, and it's actually been super helpful, looking back. If nothing else, it was a lot of conversation practice. Also we learned how to say "bourgie" in Spanish--v. important.*

We had the rest of the day free, so we headed over to the pool at the University of Granada (just us and the chicas). It was a gorgeous day and a gorgeous pool, complete with chillers, and we stuck around for about 4 hours before heading back towards Grand Via for some much-needed Haagen Daaz and a late siesta at the hotel. We woke up just as the sun was setting over some pretty spectacular clouds.

Such a beautiful view!

The big plan for the night was dinner and dancing, and we managed dinner pretty well but hit a snag before any dancing got going. After a little tapas-hopping for dinner in the Albayzin, we grabbed a couple of bottles of vino and tinto de verano (which comes in 2L soda bottles) and headed back to the hotel for some group bonding and musica. Before we knew it, it was 2AM and the club we'd been headed to had upped its cover charge, so we headed to bed while Riva and Alexandra are currently out on the town and more power to them. Feelin' pretty old.

Tomorrow, we tour a nearby olive orchard. Here's to some free snacks!

*"pija"

Taken (Spain)

The title's pretty week today, but I couldn't really replace any words in a one-word title.

We kept learning colloquial expressions and norms in class today, but I'm starting to wonder how much of this stuff actually gets used and how much of it is the Spanish equivalent of saying "Butter my butt and call me a biscuit!" I guess we'll find out if I get laughed out of school.

After a nerve-wracking morning of being phoneless, I set out to find a Yoigo store to get myself sorted out. It wasn't too hard--they're everywhere--and it was a pretty sweet walk past big Spanish houses (felt like home with all that stucco) and views of the Sierra Nevadas all around. I thought I was all set, but it turns out I forgot to bring my passport number, which is what they listed my account under, so I had to go all the way back. Things were not looking good.

Luckily, while I was gone, my host back in Madrid had found my PIN and texted it to Ramiro, so by 7pm I was back in business. We went for an early dinner at the Spanish equivalent of TropSmoo and, after getting our stuff to go ("para llevar"), we sat by a big fountain the main plaza of Granada and watched people go by. One girl--maybe fourteen--was being led around in a blindfold by a bunch of her friends. Potentially sinister.

Views from the top of the flamenco "cueva" (cave)

Tonight's activity was a flamenco performance in the Sacromonte, Granada's Gypsy Quarter. The place was a restaurant/dance hall at pretty much the highest point in Granada, with some killer views of the Alhambra at night. Everything was made of stone and stucco and very old, and it felt like every stomp of the dancers' heels could bring the whole place down. But I guess it's been there for hundreds of years, so it's probably solid.

Inside the Cueva

Afterwards, we went for some light tapas at a bar in the Albayzin where we could sit outside and check out the crowds, which are of course always around. I'm about ready to call it a night, but I guess we'll see what develops!

Tell Me A Spain

Sadly, not much to report today. We had breakfast and class and lunch as usual, but no tours in the afternoon. One interesting thing about Spain: I thought they had wine with every meal, but, as it turns out, most people just have sangria or tinto de verano, which has maybe a shot of wine but is mostly fruit and soda. Just a fun fact for the day.

We did talk a lot in class today about the contrasting drinking cultures in Spain and the US, since the drinking age is so much younger here. Also, no one seem to card. Not that it matters to an "abuela" like myself, but we did have a very interesting discussion regarding how much influence the official drinking age has on adult drinking patterns.

After lunch and siesta, we had a meeting with Ramiro to prep for course registration. Of course, at Wash U, everyone knew what they were taking in April, but here in Spain, they don't decide until September. C'est la vie, amirite? There are LOADS of classes that look cool (Atheism and Mystics, anyone?), but I'll have to narrow it down soon. Probably tomorrow after I talk to my mom because I am an adult and still need her guidance.

While perusing the course listings in our room, we heard some awesome Spanish music wafting across our balcony, so we stuck our heads out to see two percussionists, a guitar player, a vocalist, and a flautist jammin in the streets while the audience improvised a little flamenco. La vida espanola, ladies and gents.

We wandered around a bit for dinner, which was good but not particularly remarkable, before heading out to "Ladies' Night" at the discoteca by our hotel. The discoteca was unfortunately closed for the summer, but, undeterred, we headed to the local convenience store and got a couple of bottles of vino before heading out to explore Granadan nightlife. We ended up in a weird Middle Eastern-themed bar with a fooseball table and an Australian tour group, but overall it was a real blast.

Sadly, after that, my phone died and has somehow locked itself, and I left the password back in Madrid. So, unless I can figure something out, I will be phoneless til Monday...

Spain Wish

Ok so TODAY we actually went to the Alhambra. We had class in the morning as usual--following breakfast, of course. It's not Hampton Inn continental breakfast (i.e. no bacon, wtf, Spain?), but there are trays of Manchego and steamed milk for your coffee. Which is served in tiny little cups so you have to drink about 6 to match a Grande Skinny Vanilla Latte, but hey, that's what multicultural adventuring is all about. 

We had lunch at the same place as yesterday, and I ate something called Pisco con Huevos and I really don't know what it was, but there were fried eggs involved which I have been missing like crazy. They don't do eggs for breakfast here, which is a major bummer, but on the other hand, wine is cheaper than water, so I guess you win some, you lose some.

Classic tourist shot!

After siesta, we did our tour of the Alhambra and wow wow wow it is awesome! And surprisingly cool inside (temperature-wise. I guess those sultans really knew their shit.) Personally speaking, I didn't know it was actually a whole city, not just the one castle. We didn't even see the whole thing. Also there's this gorgeous Taj Mahal-style reflection pool where obviously we stopped for some pics. Gotta get that Insta-fame, amirite?

Also we learned some fun facts about Charles V, who ruled Spain as part of the Holy Roman Empire. He took over the main palace after all the Moors got booted, courtesy of Fernando and Isabel, so it's officially the Palacio de Carlos Quinto now. Anyway, he apparently had this thing about destroyed his vanquished enemies' castles--like, dude, you already slaughtered them, is that really necessary?--but the rest of Spain loved the Alhambra so much that he left it standing--to avoid an uprising--but knocked down one corner, just to prove that he could. What a dick.

On an unrelated note, did you know Spanish nutrition facts include calories as kilo-joules? Like, is anyone counting their joules? If I find out, I'll let you know.

Spain All Night

Day 2 in Granada! Today we started our language intensive course, concentrating mostly on local colloquial terms. For example, instead of referring to a rich asshole as a "fat cat," the Spaniards would say "fat fish." Very useful stuff.

But we are learning a lot, and hopefully it will make our Spanish slightly less broken because to be honest we all sound a little rough, despite our staggeringly high number of combined years of studying Spanish. Oh well.

Late Afternoon Views of the Alhambra

Class went til 1:30, then we had an amazing three-course lunch at a restaurant nearby, pre-paid by Wash U (thanks WUSTL, thanks parents). We'll be eating lunch there all week (plus the crazy huge breakfast buffet every morning), and then dinner's on our own. So the plan is to stock up on calories before siesta, then stick to tapas later on. The free kind, of course.

After siesta, which I spent sketching on the balcony (tres Bohemian), we went on a walk around the Albaicin, the old Islamic area of the city. Besides the sweet architecture and amazing views, there's also a crazy network of labyrinthine cobblestone streets. Apparently the Moors weren't into straight lines, so it's easy to get lost, but Ramiro's a great guide.

We watched the sun set over the Alhambra and worked our way to a tapas bar for "tinto de verano" (shades of summer), a seasonal cocktail made out of citrus soda and red wine (mostly soda). After that we split a bottle of Cava (Spain's answer to champagne) with the group and hung out at the hotel for awhile, watching the still-active nightlife pass by the streets beneath our balconies. It's still pretty early for Spain, but we are feeling like a couple of oldies, so buenas noches!

More Than Spain

Hola de Granada! After four hours on a first-class ride courtesy of the "BusPlus" (pronounced "BoosPloos), we arrived in Granada! The Moorish architecture is everywhere and seriously stunning, I highly recommend. It's a smaller city than Madrid, and it definitely feels older. We walked all over, starting from our hotel in the city center and wandering around all day enjoying all the city has to offer, from sangria to the Alhambra to late-night bowling. More on that later.

Making a sweet shot!

When we first arrived, we walked as a group just to check out the surrounding area, past a Moroccan-style (v. touristy) bazaar, the Gran Via (main road), and lots more. We stopped for tapas and sangria and learned that in Spain, when you order a drink, you get some tapas for free, usually involving a lot of meat and grease and sometimes french fries. Apparently the custom was established to get food in drunk people's stomachs to soak up the alcohol before they drove their horses home. Whether it's true or not, it's a sweet deal.

While the rest of the group took a siesta, we went back out for a little more exploring around the Alhambra. It's crazy awesome, but we'll be going back tomorrow, so I'll add details then.

After dinner with Ramiro, we ventured out to find a late-night bowling alley (as specific one, we didn't just have a general need). We bowled a few rounds, played some pool, and Zayn was officially introduced to the group.

Tomorrow we have our first day of language-intensive class, but the afternoon is free until 6 when we tour the Alhambra and the Albayzin. Hasta manana!

One Spain

This morning we walked around all the fabulous museums of Madrid, but we won't be going in until we have our student cards which come with hella discounts. Ramiro led the tour and we followed with the rest of our little group. Then we had a little rest in El Retiro--the giant park we were walking through--for some horchata, which I had never had and only knew from that Vampire Weekend song. Turns out it's pretty good, like a sweet creamy slushy.

But most importantly, we started our day at the phone store!! And so, armed with a brand-new Sim card, I am now a proud user of WhatsApp, so if you wanna hit that up, let me know and I will give you my 1000-digit Spanish phone number.

Fun 'n' Sun in Madrid!

We had the rest of the day free, so after a brief struggle downloading WhatsApp, we set out to find a public pool. I hadn't swum since Tuesday and I missed it. Plus we're all sweaty all the time here, so the water felt really good.

Now we're home getting ready to head to Granada tomorrow morning. I just unpacked so it's kind of a pain, but we'll only be gone about week, so that's not so bad. Plus Granada sounds so sweet.

x

Gotta Be Spain

First day of class! We were a little early thanks to Madrid's speedy Metro system but soon settled in with the rest of the class for our initial orientation.

Choosing a seat!

This session prepped us for our Spanish culture class designed so we don't look like American assholes. In order to better acclimatize, we have been advised to lay off the following:

1. Internet (oops)
2. American TV (like I'm giving up Teen Wolf), and
3. Hanging out with the other Wash U kids (all of whom I met today).

So we'll see how that goes. Also I learned that in Spain, they say "Wee-Fee" instead of "Wi-fi." Who knew?

Tonight, we go on a tour of the city center with Ramiro--the program director and professor for culture class--and the rest of the Wash U group. Then home for dinner, and more walking tours in the morning!

x

Spain's What Makes You Beautiful...

...Even though the nine-hour plane ride fucks you up. Luckily I have a hidden gem, a secret superpower, a tiny cardboard angel waiting in my backpack who just can't wait to tackle some bulls, beaches, and vino.

Through customs, baggage claim, and a hazy, jet-lagged day, there has been One Thing cheering me on: the dulcet tones of little Zayn's piercing falsetto. At last we made it to our new home in northeast Madrid, where Zayn posed for a quick selfie with our dazzling view.

Here's to a semester abroad, courtesy of Zayn in Spain!