Thursday, December 18, 2014

Where Do Broken Hearts Spain

Look at that skyline!
So, our trip to London! At this point in the semester, we don't have a whole lot of time left, so we had to make the most of what we've got! For that reason, we scheduled a nine-hour layover in London before flying back to Madrid, so we got the day to explore!
Rubbing elbows with the rich and famous!










We flew into the London City Airport and took a surprisingly quick metro (tube?) ride into Central London, where we started our day at the Tate Modern on the banks of the Thames! Great museum, although I gotta say the plain, all-gray canvases are not really my thing. To each her own, I guess.

Gorgeous weather!
Famous dead people are buried here!
There was a Christmas market right outside the museum, so we checked that out, got a roasted potato/veggie thing from the market to eat on the go, and set off across the Millennium bridge past St Paul's Cathedral and towards the London Eye. Past that, we walked towards the Houses of Parliament, where we posed for a quick pic with Big Ben!

Were we allowed to take pics in here???
That's famous art!
We strolled past Westminster Abbey, got close to Buckingham Palace, but ended up going in the opposite direction towards the National Gallery, where we spent a very enjoyable half hour or so checking out the Monets, the Van Goghs, The Renoirs, and one of Gericault's sketches for The Raft of the Medusa, which we just saw in the Louvre last weekend! So that was pretty cool.

Classic tourist shot!
Christmastime at Fortnum and Mason!
After the National Gallery, we checked out Fortnum and Mason's, where we bought a pricey but INCREDIBLE fudgey brownie to eat as we walked to Harrods by way of Piccadilly Circus. The Christmas window displays are amazing, lots of weird puppets doing festive things.

Then we caught the train from Victoria to Gatwick for our 7pm flight back to Madrid and were back in our Salamanca apartment by 11!





Spain to Run

Misty day at the Cliffs of Moher! Brrr!!
Well kids, our days here in Espana are numbered, but we still have time for a couple more quick posts!

Last Friday, we hopped on a plane to Dublin!! For some reason, we had to go through passport control for the first time all semester. Still not really sure how the EU works, to be honest.

Abhainn na Gaillimhe, the River Corrib!
We got into Dublin around noon, stashed our stuff at a cute little hotel in Temple Bar, and spent a very enjoyable day wandering around vintage shops in Temple Bar and the fancier places on Grafton Street before picking up falafel takeout for dinner and resting up for our trip the next day!

Galway Winter Carnival! Merry Xmas!!!
Bright and early on Saturday, we set off with the Shamrockers bus tour from Dublin to Ennis by way of Blarney Castle! We had a great guide, and the countryside is absolutely beautiful, as always. We spent Saturday night in a hostel in Ennis and a fun night at a local pub with the rest of the tour group--mostly Australians, New Zealanders, a couple of Brits.

Sunday, we left Ennis, saw the Cliffs of Moher and the Burren before spending the afternoon in Galway and were back in Dublin by 6PM!

The Long Room at TCD--so scholarly!
We were in Dublin all of Monday, too, and were able to check out the Book of Kells at Trinity, where there was also a cool exhibit on illustration and myths in children's literature. We had to spend some time during the afternoon working on stuff for finals, but later that night we saw She Stoops to Conquer at the Abbey Theater, which was a fun eighteenth century Irish farce, but we had to go straight back to the hotel afterwards to get some sleep before our 8AM flight to London the next day!!


Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Steal My Spain

That thing is huge!
Hey kids! First off, we are so sorry to have been lagging in our blogging game. As our time here draws to a close, we're finding less and less time to blog. Partly we're busy wrapping up our classes are Charlie 3 (as we've been affectionately referring to the Universidad Carlos III de Madrid), but mostly we've been trying to make the most of our remaining time abroad and squeezing everything out of it that we can!
Marie Antoinette's bedroom--Where's Kristen Dunst???






Taking in some Renoir at L'Orangerie!










The weekend after we got back from Galicia, we set off for Paris with Riva, taking the VERY long journey by train. Luckily we were able to get some work done on the way and so fully enjoy our time there, with the help of a former student of Mom's, the lovely amazing Jess, who is living in Paris and was kind enough to show us the town. We saw the Louvre, Notre Dame, St Chapelle, Montmarte, Sacre Coeur, the Jewish Quarter (great falafel), the Latin Quarter, the Arc de Triomphe, and much more! Plus a very cute little restaurant with some incredible escargot and beef tartar.
Classic tourist pose!

And all that was just Saturday! Or at least, a lot of it was. We did so much, it's all getting jumbled. Some of this might have also been Sunday evening. Plus I know Jess also showed us the Champs-Elysee, where we got macarons at La Duree (tres chic) and then walked around the Christmas market (that was definitely Sunday, now that I think about it. This is why we need to blog consistently!)
Checkin ourselves out in the Hall of Mirrors!

Sunday, we set off for Versailles with Riva, where we tried not to get ill over the sheer opulence of it all. The weather wasn't ideal, but that at least meant it wasn't crowded. At least, not outside. Inside it kind of felt like an international Black Friday. When we got back, we decided to relax with some wine and cheese, a la Parisien.

Monday, we went to the Musee L'Orangerie (the D'Orsay was closed), and the Eiffel Tower, and then got dinner with a friend of Riva's who's studying abroad in Paris (we had some truly excellent pig's feet, believe it or not. They paired well with a nice Cote du Rhone.) before taking the night train back to Madrid! Phew!
Can we move in??

It's almost 2AM here now, but I'll try to do a quick update tomorrow on our latest trip, which we just got back from a few hours ago, to Ireland and London!

Thursday, December 4, 2014

Half a Spain

Or rather, half a post! A few more pics from Galicia that we missed the first time around:
The "Versailles" of Spain (is it....)

Some pretty views, though!

"Queso de tetilla" = "Nipple Cheese" aka boob-shaped

Smells a little ripe in here!!

Rooftop Views of Santiago! Don't fall!!

Standing on top of a cathedral! Wow!

Alive (in Spain)

Getting a tan!
Oof, well, we had a HUGE blast in Galicia, and it was so beautiful, we couldn't help posing with just about everything we saw! So this'll be a photo-heavy post.

Follow the shells on the Camino!











We left Madrid Thursday night, after Ramiro's class and hopped on our short flight (under an hour) to Santiago de Compostela, the destination for people (pilgrims?) walking the Camino de Santiago. It's apparently the third most important holy site for the Catholic Church, but a lot of people do it for more secular/spiritual/tourist reasons, too.

Views on the Camino!
The weekend was mostly vacation; there was very little actual programming. We went to an old castle that is apparently knows as the Versailles of Spain (We'll let you know how it compares to the real deal...), walked a couple of hours worth of the Camino, and some pretty spectacular seaside cliffs. Plus we ate a lot of seafood.

Ocean Breezes!
The wind in our hair!
















The nightlife in Santiago is, unsurprisingly, a little lackluster, but we also didn't give it much of a try. We all went straight to bed upon arrival Thursday night, and then Friday and Saturday we stayed in with the gals to introduce Hannah and Alexandra to Reign, the CW's current masterpiece. Not very wild, but a lot of fun.

Tomorrow, Paris!

Thursday, November 27, 2014

Does Spain Know?

Don't get pickpocketed!
So we've been away for awhile, but I promise it's just because we've been so busy doing fun stuff! But we'll do our best to get you all caught up with our latest goings-on.

Last Sunday (the day after our last update), Riva and I did end up going to El Rastro, a big open-air market that sells mostly crap that looks like it was made in poorly-funded sweatshops trying to imitate something they saw on an American infomercial, but there was also some cool handmade jewelry and cheap leather goods, so we both ended up finding a few things--mostly Christmas presents!

The rest of last week was pretty much the usual until Friday, when we set off to Cologne! Or, as it's apparently called in Germany, Koln. Who knew? Coline met us at the airport and we were off for a weekend of festivities!
Apertif, anyone??

It was great to see her after all that time--we figured out we hadn't seen each other since 2010--and she gave us a great look at the city, which sits right on the Rhine River. Coline lives in this surprisingly spacious student apartment with one other girl, who happened to be out of town that weekend, so we didn't get to meet her, but we did get her room, which was bigger than our living room here in Madrid.

Cologne is beautiful, and the Christmas markets were just starting to open up, so we got to check out all the crafts and food and decorations, and it was all so festive and fun that we are REALLY ready for Christmas now. We had bratwurst and marzipan and good German beer (Cologne is part of the Kolsch region) all weekend, and I only wish we could've had more time. But we were lucky to be there as long as we were.

Later today, we leave for Santiago de Compostela, and we'll be touring Galicia all weekend, but we'll try to update whenever possible!

Saturday, November 15, 2014

Why Don't We Spain There?

Warm coffee on a cold day!
This week was pretty much business as usual, class, tutoring, etc. We did go back to Zumba for the first time in weeks, though! Then, on Thursday, we had to write our midterm essays for Ramiro's class, which was kind of a pain, but we found a nice little cafe to set up camp in, so it went as painlessly as possible.


Yesterday, Riva and the two of us finally got around to checking out Mercado de San Miguel, a huge indoor marketplace full of different booths selling all kinds of snack-sized portions of food and drink for the ultimate tapas-hopping experience. We got there around 3PM and pretty much stuck around the rest of the day sampling just about everything we could find, from cranberry mozzarella roll-ups to rose cava.

Tapas at San Miguel!




Later, we met up with Andrew to go back to the pizza place in Sol we went to last week after the Opera for a little snack and a bottle of 6-euro cava. Then we went out to Fontana de Oro where we ran into Kate and Prentiss (both from Vassar) and their respective gentleman callers. We were home by 2AM, so all in all a successful night.

We didn't do too much today, just watched some TV and popped out to Corte Ingles to pick up a couple of canvases. Then, of course, we were able to come home and do some painting. A quiet day, but overall very enjoyable.

Tomorrow we're planning on going to El Rastro, Madrid's largest outdoor market, and then we'll probably have to do some work in preparation for the end of the semester.

Saturday, November 8, 2014

Better Than Spain

Haunted Metro!
Sorry we've been so off our blogging game this week! There actually has been a lot going on, which is why we haven't written (unlike usual when we skip days just because we have nothing to talk about).

Monday: After class, we considered going to the Thyssen Museum (Pop art shit), but they close early on Mondays, so we went across the street to the Prado instead, which is free Monday evenings. We spent a few very pleasant hours there, mostly checking out Spain's copies of Greco-Roman sculpture and pausing a few times to just sit and draw them. Very relaxing, very fun.

Wednesday: Along with Riva, Alexandra, and Hannah, we headed to a free tour of the Sorolla museum. The museum itself is actually Sorolla's house from when he lived in Madrid, and they haven't really changed much around since then, so that's pretty cool. Unlike most artists (ugh), he was actually pretty commercially successful while he was alive, so the house is pretty sweet. And, fun fact, from what we saw of the portraits, his son was kind of hot. Who knew?

Later Wednesday: Another Pasaport Cultural event at the Ciclo de Cine aka Wednesday Movie Night. This week's director was Jorge Torregrossa, and the feature film was called Fin. It's kind of suspense, kind of a thriller, definitely an independent film. It was pretty good though, I have to say, although Very different from last week, but still enjoyable.

ALSO, we talked to Amy, and we don't actually have to get a full 3 credits from the Pasaporte, which means we don't actually have to do 24 events. So my life is my own again.

In the Mezquita Courtyard!
Friday: No class, and no excursion! After a blissful morning of sleeping in, we met Riva at the Teatro Real to buy student tickets for that night's performance of Le fille du regiment aka THE OPERA. That's right, kids, we spent Friday night at the MADRID OPERA. Student rush tickets are 90% off, so we got floor seats in ROW TWELVE for 20 euro!!! After buying tickets, we went to a special exhibition on the history of the Madrid Metro, which was held in a Metro station that was shut down about 50 years ago. A little creepy, maybe haunted (the metro still goes through, but it doesn't stop), but a very cool exhibit.
Mezquita time!

The show itself was actually awesome, like obviously very high quality, plus the show is really fun! It was basically a musical romantic comedy, like could have easily starred Ginger Rogers. We had a TOTAL blast, then grabbed dinner and cava at a little Italian place near Sol before grabbing a drink at Fontana de Oro, where there was a band playing 1970s American music--very fun.

Roman bridge in Cordoba!
Then, this morning, we and Riva caught the AVE to Cordoba! It was a great day trip; for one thing, the weather is WAY better in Andalucia than Madrid. Sunny and warm, while Madrid was cool and rainy today, so thank god we weren't around. It feels kind of like the older parts of Granada and Toledo, and the Mezquita is seriously awesome. In true Andalusian style, we did a big tapas lunch with tortilla, patatas moriscos, pisto con huevos, deep-fried eggplant with honey and balsamic vinegar, and thick slices of bread drenched in the most AMAZING olive oil I've had since being here. I didn't even crave butter!

After lunch, we wandered around the little cobblestone streets and did some shopping before catching the AVE back to Madrid, and we were home before 9!

Sunday, November 2, 2014

Little Spain Lies

The title could have been "Little White Spain," but that seemed too pointed, even for me.

That cross is the tallest thing in Spain.
Anyway, it's actually been a pretty eventful weekend here in España. Friday was our final day trip with Ramiro of the semester (although we still have the weekend trip to Galicia coming up at the end of this month), so we spent the morning at the Prado talking about cubism, the surrealists, and civil war-era Spanish art in general, including a crash course on Guernica. Very interesting stuff, the time actually flew by (unlike our day talking about the Catholic Counterreformation aka the "How boring can we make this portrait?" school of art).

That afternoon, we drove out of Madrid up into the mountains to see the "Valle de los Caidos" (Valley of the Fallen), and I don't think any of us really knew what it was but were like "Wow, it's so pretty up here, smell that mountain air!" until we realized that "Valle de los Caidos" is actually "Valle de Franco" and is the monument he erected to himself to house his tomb once he died.


That's right, ladies and gentlemen, the Spanish government is still allotting tax money to fund the upkeep of FRANCO'S MONUMENT IN HONOR OF HIMSELF. We saw FRANCO'S TOMB on HALLOWEEN and let me tell you there were some fascists ghosts in that place, and we were NOT into it. It's very huge and creepy and Catholic and full of avenging angel sculptures and tapestries depicting the Apocalypse. It just reminded us all how very recent Franco's rule was and how real it still is to most of Spain. In fact, he still has a lot of supporters here, which makes me pretty ill.

That evening, we went to a little gallery for a Pasaporte Cultural event, which was just checking out this exhibition of sculpture and prints that took topographical depictions of rivers and mountains and translated them into abstract forms of shape and line. It was actually very cool, not at all a bad way to spend an hour. The artist's name is Maya Lin, and if you're interested, there's more info here.

That night we went out for Halloween, nothing super remarkable, except that Spaniards don't really do costumes so much as pick an outfit and add zombie makeup and fake blood. Some of them do choose costumes, like cheerleader or doctor or Princess Elsa, and then they add zombie makeup and fake blood. Made for an interesting night anyway.

Saturday, we went to Segovia with Riva and Alex. It's about a half-hour ride on the Ave, but you end up in this ancient city in the middle of the Spanish countryside that feels like a thousand miles from Madrid. The city's real claim to fame is its Roman aqueduct, but there's also a fairly impressive cathedral and a medieval castle. Also a lot of restaurants serving whole suckling pigs. We regrettably declined.

That night, we went with Hannah and Alex to a fairly fancy bar in Malasaña called The Passenger, which is done up on the inside to look like the inside of an old-fashioned train car, with music to match. One wall is lined with giant TV screens that play landscapes and cities and stuff rushing by at high-speed. A little nauseating if you think about it too hard, but if you concentrate on your-overpriced cocktail and leather armchair, it's not so bad. This morning, we and the girls went back to brunch at Carmencita--stunning as always--and then we and Riva spent the rest of the day at La Acuarela, that weird Viennese-style cafe we keep acknowledging as less than satisfactory and then keep going back to. 



Thursday, October 30, 2014

Something Spain

Whoo man, have we been off our blogging game this week! Not to worry, you didn't miss too much, just another week of class, more or less. One update: Esperanza has started buying butter! So that's been a fun edition to an already-opulent breakfast.

"Constant Rain of Ideas"/Shower of Lightbulbs
Other than that... Tutoring, class...Ah, we started our Cultural Passport activities at last. In retrospect, we should have started waaayyy earlier, but we'll just have to do our best. The activity we went to this week was a free movie screening of this old-ish Italian movie called La Lozana Andaluz. "La Lozana" is a Spanish girl who moves to Rome, falls in love with a cute boy, and then they, with the help of his aunt, set up a whorehouse together and live together in prosperity. Very heartwarming.

Tomorrow, we go to the Reina Sofia and the Valle de los Caidos--Franco's tomb for WWII casualties. Gotta say, I am a little uncomfortable with the level of esteem some people still seem to hold for Franco. Like, why are we going to see one of his monuments? Hopefully we'll find out tomorrow.

Today's pic is from the window of a place near where we do tutoring. We haven't been able to figure out what the actual business is, but the window display always has some kind of artsy sculpture made out of bathroom appliances. Go figure.

We swam with the Middlebury girls Tuesday and today and aced our Latinamerican Lit midterm. All in all, a good week thus far. Also, Zayn and the boys released their latest music video last Friday, and tickets for their 2015 tour went on sale this week! Woohoo!

Sunday, October 26, 2014

Through the Spain

Hey kids!! Here we are, fresh from Barcelona with TALES TO TELL. First of all, though, I must admit a serious transgression. In my pre-trip excitement, I forgot to put Zayn in my bag. Luckily, we got to Barcelona and who should we see but Zayn, accompanied by all of the boys?? They were able to pose for a quick pic, but mostly wanted to do their own thing for the weekend.

There was a bit of a mix-up at the train station Friday morning (i.e. I missed my train), but I got on a slightly later one and met up with Riva in beautiful Barcelona only a couple hours later than originally planned. From the train station, we headed to our digs for the weekend in an area called Porto Olimpic. In fact, we weren't so much in the port area as we were in the port. And we weren't so much in the port as we were on a boat.

Yes, friends, we rented a small wooden houseboat for the weekend through AirBnB. It was actually pretty nice, considering there was no bathroom/shower/kitchen (we used the port public restrooms--hygiene, needless to say, was at an all-time low for the weekend) and we couldn't really stand up without hitting our heads. But it had a nice sunny deck and a surprisingly spacious bed down below. And it was a pretty cute boat, all weathered wood and little portholes to let in sunlight and ocean breezes. So we actually had quite an enjoyable stay.
Just a few boys on a boat!

After dropping our stuff at the boat on Friday afternoon, we spent a few hours lounging on the beach and wandering around the port area before heading back to the boat for a couple of drinks in preparation for our night out at the Barcelona beach clubs. Probably the fewer details the better on that night, suffice to say we ended up back on the boat around 6AM and slept til about 2PM the next day.

With what was left of Saturday, we had lunch at a port restaurant on their terrace overlooking the water before spending a few more hours on the beach. That evening, determined not to have wasted the whole day, we headed out to explore the Gothic Quarter and La Rambla, which was PACKED with people spilling out of their homes and all the surrounding bars, where they'd been watching the Madrid-Barcelona soccer game. Barcelona lost pretty dramatically, so there was a certain lack of enthusiasm in the air last night. But Riva and I had fun checking out the little market booths and street performers anyway.

This morning, rising at the crack of 9, we struck out for the Sagrada Familia and Park Guell, the two main places in Barcelona to check out Gaudi's stuff. Our tickets to the Sagrada Familia--the cathedral designed by Guadi--weren't until 1:15, so we did the Park first and got THE views of Barcelona since it turns out the park is set up on the very top of the city. That was a fun walk up. But yeah, that's where all the mosaic tile stuff is that always shows up if you google "Gaudi Barcelona," so it was quite an experience.

The cathedral is RIDICULOUS, like very beautiful and aesthetically pleasing, but you kind of feel dizzy after awhile. He went a little overboard with the rainbow stained glass, possibly. It is amazing, but you kind of get the feeling he didn't know when to stop. Again, Zayn didn't come along, but I'll be putting some pics up on my Facebook if you want a better picture of what it looks like.

Back in Madrid now, and we will be SLEEEEEPING tonight. Also, fun fact, the Spain version of daylight savings time was last night. Who knew?


Thursday, October 23, 2014

Little Spain Dress

Snap from Toledo found on Belen's Blog!
Well, for once, the blog title actually aligns with something we did today, and that was buying a little dress. Not sure how Spanish it is since it came from H&M, but it was at least an H&M in Madrid. The first clothes we've bought in Spain since that one pair of pants in Granada about two months ago.

Apologies for the gap between blogs. We meant to write yesterday but ended up going out to a friend's birthday instead, and there wasn't time for both homework and a blogpost beforehand. The night was fun, though; we met up with Riva at Puerta del Sol and headed over to meet a few of Vassar kids for the shindig (Kate's birthday). It was 1-euro shot night again, but we pretty much abstained, having learned our lesson from last time. We stuck around til about 2:30, cabbed home, and arrived right on time for our 9AM class this morning.

Moving backwards a bit, yesterday afternoon we had our second "Clase de Interculturalidad" with Ramiro, but this time we were joined by Amy Suelzer, the program director at Wash U who's here for the week visiting. The class itself was way less painful than last time--for one thing, it was only one hour instead of two--and was followed by the WU-funded beverage of our choice at the cafe down the street.

The Majesty of Madrid!
After that, Riva and I headed to Circulo de Bellas Artes, a high-rise museum/gallery with a rooftop bar in the city center. The building itself is gorgeous, and the view is AMAZING. We sat on a big daybed with a light-up end table for our drinks and watched the sun setting over the city.

Today we swam 5600 meters with the Middlebury girls today, then had Ramiro class in the afternoon, where we talked about the Spanish Civil War and the surrealist movement. We'd watched Bunuel's L'Age d'Or for homework, which I really liked, so it was a good time.

Now we're home waiting on dinner and getting organized for Bacelona tomorrow! 

Monday, October 20, 2014

Spain Now

Oof! A whole weekend off! We had a FABULOUS FABULOUS time in Toulouse! So fabulous we had no time to blog! But not to worry, we still managed some snapshots.

Our flight wasn't til 9:15, but we haven't practiced flying out of Madrid yet, so we left early to make sure we had plenty of time. It takes an hour to get to the airport, and we figured for international flights we'd  need between 90 minutes and 2 hours, AND we wanted to shower beforehand, so we set the alarm for 5:30. But then we were so excited we woke up at 4:45. So it's a good thing we were able to run on adrenaline for the next 23 hours.
Arrival in Toulouse!



We met Schuyler in the city center of Toulouse for lunch at a nice Italian terraza restaurant and enjoyed the BEAUTIFUL sunny weather, which we were SO ready after the last week in Madrid. She had to go back to class after lunch, so we had a nice stroll through the little shops around the main plaza, lots of cheap makeup, used records, and bookstore cafes. Plus we checked out this gorgeous Cathedral, lots of gilding and painted cherubs.

Once Schuyler was out of class, we strolled around a bit more before heading back to her apartment to settle in, shower, and give profuse thanks to her host parents for letting me stay with them. The apartment was amazing, full of expensive Picasso prints and antique furniture and balcony views of the canal outside.

That night we had dinner at this great little Japanese place and I cannot tell you how beautiful it was to eat something that hadn't been fried in olive oil and purged of all flavor. I guess raw fish is pretty much the exact opposite of Spanish cuisine, where everything is cooked/steamed/fried/baked to death.
So festive!

After dinner, we headed out to a pirate-themed rum bar near the main plaza for a couple of mojitos--made with strawberry-flavored rum--and then to a place called the Blind Tiger for Cosmos (tres tres fancy) and finally to an English pub to meet one of the girls on Schuyler's program for some Strongbow to close down the night. The taxi system isn't much in Toulouse, so we walked all the way back, and my feet were killing me, but I gotta say the view of the river at night was pretty stellar.

The next day, after sleeping til about 11, we had a LOVELY breakfast with toast and REAL BUTTER. My first butter in two months!! A very big deal indeed. A pleasant morning of more strolling, more shopping, then a lunch of savory crepes--mine had roquefort, emmental, and mushrooms--in a painfully hip cafe playing nothing but David Bowie. It was great.

 We were joined by another girl from Schuyler's program, then started walking back towards the center of town. I insisted we stopped for croissants, since we were after all in France and it simply is Done, stopped to pick up a couple of bottles of rose wine  for the evening's festivities, then headed back to the apartment for a lovely afternoon on the sunny balcony sipping grapefruit juice and being nuzzled by the family cat.
Check out that Baroque!

Suddenly the sun had set, and we headed out to meet the two girls from Schuyler's program plus a French guy who studied abroad at their school last year. We had dinner at a fairly fancy Italian place where Schuyler and I had some very nice Cotes du Rhone and pesto tagliatelle. And the French guy didn't finish his honey-and-goat cheese pizza, so we took care of that, too.

That night, we grabbed the rose and headed down to the banks of the Garonde (the river) to meet the crew from dinner, plus two more of Schuyler's friends, one from Morocco and one from Germany. It sounds weird, I know, but the place was packed. That seems to be how it is done in Toulouse, and we had a real blast.

The next morning, another fabulous breakfast, a stroll through the local botanical gardens, then back to the apartment to pack up and head to the airport with plenty of time to look back on our fabulous weekend. We even got back to Madrid in time for dinner. All in all, a killer weekend, and we can't wait to do more travelling!